To truly appreciate the obstacles overcome by railroad surveyors and engineers over a century ago, one must rise above the treeline and grasp firsthand the "big picture." On an absolutely perfect spring evening, Amtrak's eastbound Empire Builder sweeps through the small town of Index, Washington, crossing the North Fork Skykomish River on a brief horseshoe-shaped detour away from the main stream. Framing this scene are, from left, Gunn & Merchant Peaks, Haybrook Ridge (topped by the power lines), Baring & Grotto Mountains, the valley of the South Fork Skykomish River, and innumerable peaks stretching off into the distance; at bottom-left is the encroaching shadow of Index Town Wall. James Hill's Great Northern followed the South Fork along a route surveyed by John Stevens to the crossing of the Cascade divide that now bears his name, and over which the passengers on today's edition of the train named for the great railroad baron will soon enjoy for themselves.